Kauai’s natural beauty — and island vulnerabilities — meet travelers eager to get out in the world
Kumu Camp, a rustic beachfront campground on the northeast coast of Kauai, has few visitors in early May. The constant pounding of waves breaking on the shore and shimmering blue waters provide a dreamy backdrop to this place that lulls and excites with its natural charm and beauty.
The lack of people is balanced by robust bird life — roosters grab center stage by warming up their vocal chords as morning’s light peeks through dark, silvery clouds over Anahola Bay. Hens lead their chicks on a food-finding mission, scampering and pecking through bushes and other varieties of shrub that border the beach. And the occasional red-crested cardinal enters the mix, bringing a splash of color and a quick chirp to greet the day.
The camp is a perfect spot to escape for many looking to decompress from life’s stresses — that is, if you don’t mind yurts and bungalows without bathrooms. The timing, the camp’s location, this island … it all works for me in this first week of May, despite some delays at an understaffed airport in Lihue that causes a stumble out of the gate.
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Lava rocks dot the shoreline at Anini Beach on the North Shore of Kauai
Travel glitches are understandably plentiful on a remote island struggling to cope — and re-emerge — as the marathon Covid pandemic slowly eases its grip on tourism. A car-rental shortage is developing on Kauai — and on this day, May 2, the island seemingly is hit with an onslaught of travelers seeking paradise. In my case, reserving a small SUV well in advance makes a huge difference in the cost and availability of vehicles. After a long wait in line, I happily take the key of a Kia Sorento and consider myself lucky, while other vacationers are less fortunate, many driving away with pricey, gas-guzzling behemoths as their last option.
My campsite yurt, Sunrise Hale, is equipped with a mini fridge, electricity and a floor lamp. And windows. A strong, steady breeze rolls into the camp, keeping the humidity inside the yurt pretty bearable. The unit sits on raised decking, offering a nice beachfront view of Anahola Bay.
This beach allows vehicles to drive on the sand — all speeds, any time of day or night — and motorbikes as well, and they can be loud. Four-wheel-drive trucks with young people in the truck bed are a common sight on the beach. Fishermen with their families in tow park their vehicles and cast their lines into the surf, sometimes overnight. The freedom to move about is part of the attraction here for families seeking a laid-back outing at the water’s edge.
A couple of drawbacks about Kumu Camp: there are few reliable Wi-Fi signals in the area, and the camp’s showers run mostly cold.
This is my first time back to Hawaii in 20 years, so I am hoping to get around as much of Kauai as possible. But road closures on the North Shore — caused by a landslide at Hanalei — create enough traffic backups to keep me from using precious time trying to reach the “end of the road” on the northwest part of the island. Instead I focus on hitting popular snorkeling spots on three sides of the island. First I am happy to find good snorkeling at Lydgate Beach Park to the east. I find calm swimming conditions but murky water at beautiful Anini Beach on the north side, and Salt Pond Beach Park on the south side.
No boat tours for me this vacation. I am tempted to take a snorkeling trip to Niihau island but am actually scared off by the 6 a.m. departure time in Port Allen — and the $239 price tag — so I decide against booking one of the seven-hour tours. On this trip, I am happy to spend more time beachcombing next to my camp and relaxing on my deck, with its great view of Anahola Bay and lively surfing scene.
Poipu Beach Park, South Shore 
Cool artwork takes a prime parking spot in Hanapepe 
Lava boulders at ‘Aliomanu Beach, north of Anahola Beach 
Waterfall at Waimea Canyon 
Kalihiwai Beach, North Shore 
A boat sits on the sand at Kalihiwai Beach 
A Hawaiian monk seal sleeps at Poipu Beach 
Opaeka’a Falls 
A sliver of moon glows over Anahola 
Calm, shallow water at Anini Beach
It's My Serve 